Welcome to the Jersey Gypsy column, where our resident travel reporter, Valentina, roams the globe in pursuit of stories.
Ever since I was a kid, Australia held a special place in my imagination – a beautiful, sun-drenched land where tropical jungles and exotic wildlife meet modern cities. For a city dweller like me, it felt like the ultimate escape, a rural paradise waiting to be explored.
So when I heard there was a train that would take me through the heart of Australia – from Darwin to Adelaide – it felt like stepping into a Hemingway novel, only this time aboard The Ghan.
Often hailed as one of the finest ways to experience Australia’s epic landscapes, the Ghan combines breathtaking views with world-class service, making it a journey unlike any other.
Ready to go on a train ride with me?
Buying Tickets
Sometimes also called the Afghan Express, it is a luxury experience no matter what level you enter, but there are different tiers to the service.
Gold Service
This is the ‘standard’ experience if such a thing exists on board The Ghan – and the most popular. There’s luxury seating that converts to bedding, an en-suite bathroom, and general premium air in the cabin. Twin or standard configurations offer an accessible romantic twist.
Platinum Service
As you can imagine, platinum is as good as it gets. We’re talking more space, larger beds, and bigger bathrooms, all capped off with an exclusive private lounge with deluxe seating and luxury ottomans.
Here’s what I can tell you about the Platinum Service: it sure looked like it was worth every penny, but I was stuck in the gold tier like a common low-level aristocrat.
It’s absurd the sacrifices I make for these stories, reader.
Gold packages start at around $2,500, while platinum packages can cost as much as $6,000.
Whichever service you pick, you’re entitled to all the bells and whistles of the ride – all-inclusive restaurant cars, the Outback Explorer lounge, and world-class food and wine.
First Impressions
Gold Service members get a small cabin, but I found it closer to “cozy” than “cramped.”
When the cabin is prepped for sleep, your seating is transformed into a surprisingly comfortable bed, a transformation that has to be seen and believed.
Was it the lushest, most luxurious bed I’ve ever laid down on? No, of course not – but the hotels I’ve stayed in that are nicer didn’t have some of the most beautiful scenery in the world constantly whizzing past the window.
In a gold single carriage, you share a toilet and shower with other guests, which can be a dealbreaker for some – but remember, upgrades can get you your own en suite if necessary.
I never actually encountered any of my suitemates while on the ride, so it wasn’t an issue for me. I was able to keep to myself as much (or as little) as I pleased.
Off-Train Experiences to Remember
There’s a wealth of amazing experiences included as part of your fare, although they’re all entirely optional if you’d rather just stay camped aboard the train. Me? I craved a little adventure to add to my experience.
Perhaps the most memorable amongst them was the trip to the desert park in Alice Springs. There are scooters available to be hired for the excursion, which provides an educational journey through Desert Rivers, Sand Country, and Woodland.
For culture junkies like me, this is truly a must. Learning about the local flora and fauna is not something I’ll forget in a hurry, even though, regrettably, you’re not allowed to pet the dingoes (probably for the best).
If I ever get the chance to do this again, I’m definitely returning to Alice Springs for their nocturnal adventure tour. It sounds absolutely enchanting – a guided “Mulga Walk” through a predator-proof enclosure, offering the chance to spot incredible creatures like bilbies and echidnas under the starlit Outback sky.
The Queen Adelaide Restaurant
My humble gold service entitles me to world-class dining aboard The Ghan’s Queen Adelaide Restaurant. I feasted on a two-course breakfast, a two-course lunch, and a three-course dinner, with (selected) beverages included.
Breakfast
Banquet would probably be more accurate in describing what I was presented with at the Queen Adelaide. Baked beans, poached eggs, and endless slabs of grilled bacon were accompanied by artisan toast and a ricotta hot cake.
Lunch
I had the pleasure of a Buffalo curry, which was paired with my choice of sparkling water – although guests can enjoy something more adventurous if they see fit.
Dinner
An equally decedent affair to cap off the day. I tucked into some saltwater barramundi with a lovely glass of white.
The food was excellent, although I don’t expect the train to earn a Michelin star anytime soon. It was certainly better than your average fare, but if you’re looking for truly spectacular dining experiences Down Under, you’re better off waiting until the train rolls into the station.
Check out my experience with other restaurants across the country.
How Much For The All-Inclusive Experience?
Here’s the basics:
- Gold Twin: $3,995
- Gold Single: $3,595
- Platinum: $6,495
The gold experience was fantastic, but I can see why a more discerning traveler might opt for the added luxury and perks of a platinum trip.
At the end of the day, though, I don’t regret missing out on the “stuff” that comes with a Platinum upgrade. When I think about what I truly missed out on, it’s more experiences like the nocturnal tour of Alice Springs Park, not a private bathroom.
That said, I’ve always been more drawn to immersing myself in the local vibe and embracing a bit of grit over indulging in pure luxury – so take that for what it’s worth.
What’s The Dress Code Like?
Smart casual attire is the suggestion, but I personally saw this stretched to some interesting limits and interpretations. Don’t worry too much, but be reasonable.
Coat and tails are not required, but maybe aim a bit higher than ratty sweatpants? I would also leave the Crocs and tank tops in the luggage.
That being said, don’t be afraid to pack a pair of comfortable shoes for some of the off-train activities or even just moving between carriages. It can get bumpy on there, and heels are not your friend in those conditions.
And remember, when you step off the train in between stops, you’ll likely be flush in the middle of the Australian Outback. Make sure your shoes (and the rest of your attire) can handle the terrain. Changing into a completely different outfit for off-train excursions is a smart idea.
Is the Ghan Worth the Hype?
Maybe I’m just an old romantic, but The Ghan was everything I hoped for. I love the mix of first-class luxury with gritty, authentic Outback experiences – it’s like hopping from world to world every time you get on and off the train.
There’s something for everyone here. Whether you’re just looking for luxury relaxation or you’ve got a penchant for adventure and exploration, this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that everyone should try.
Set your expectations reasonably, though.
The food is good, but this shouldn’t be the highlight of your culinary life. The accommodations are luxurious, but they won’t make you forget the Four Seasons. The activities are fun but not nearly as comprehensive as what you’d find if you made them the centerpiece of your trip.
I’m incredibly happy I took this train ride, and it’s a bucket list experience I can finally cross off. However, it may be just that – something to experience once and cross off your list forever. I believe the next time I visit Australia, I’ll probably use my Ghan budget to fund more focused experiences elsewhere.
The Ghan Experience: FAQs
How Much is it to Book The Ghan?
Packages range from $3,000 to over $6,000, depending on whether you want the gold or platinum experience.
Where Can I Buy Tickets for The Ghan?
There are many places where you can buy tickets for The Ghan. For more information, check out Freedom Destinations and Journey Beyond Rail.
What’s the Itinerary Like?
Various activities are included during the three-night trip, including town tours, park adventures, dirt biking expeditions, and fine dining experiences.
What Dining Options Are Available on The Ghan Ride?
Queen Adelaide Restaurant is the main art deco attraction, but platinum guests can also enjoy an exclusive carriage with a wider selection of beverages.
